Tonsai Climbing and Eating

Zak and I did get in a little climbing while were at Tonsai and it was fantastic. We set up an outing with “Ra” at the Tonsai Rock Shop. He was to supply all the equipment along with his guiding services. However, when we arrived at the predetermined time, Ra was still asleep in his hammock. He was apparently suffering from a bout of over-indulgence the night before and, even after a colleague stuck his ipod speakers directly under his hammock, consciousness did not appear likely in the near future. Instead, we were escorted by his colleague Dee who brought us over to the "Fire Wall" at the North end of Tonsai Beach. One of the wonderful aspects of climbing is that it takes you to beautiful spots that you might not have had reason to go to otherwise. Climbing at Tonsai brought me to one of the most beautiful spots I have ever seen, period. We climbed the “Groove Tube” route up a colorful limestone cliff with a beautiful blue bay at our backs. Zak did great, back-stepping and stemming up the tube like a pro which was no small feat given its grade (French grading system 6A or about 5.9/5.10 U.S.). By this time it was getting pretty hot on the Fire Wall so we moved to the Dum’s Kitchen wall right on the beach. We climed “Pahn Taaled” (Always Pass), another excellent 6A, that involved some big reaches to bomber holds. That was it for Zak for the day but Dee and I moved over to the Tonsai Roof right next to the Freedom Bar at the South end of the beach. I literally belayed Dee from the floor of the Bar. Our route, Cowabungalow (6B or 5.10 b/c), started above the actual roof and involved a number of delicate moves between hanging stalactites. I’ve never done any climbing like this and I can’t wait to do some more although I will have to work on my climbing as we completed a large portion of the climbs under a grade of 5.11. After climbing, Zak and I met up with the folks at Phra Nha beach where we were entertained by some monkeys before going for a refreshing swim; this place is like paradise. However, even in utopia there is myopia. Zak was trying to hand feed a corn cob to a young monkey, when the father(?) leaped up, bared his teeth, and hissed in Zak's face; presumably for teasing the youngster with a cob and no corn. I got Zak to agree that would be the closest encounter to a monkey on this trip.

Everything here is simply beautiful, including the monkey encounters. The beaches are incredible, the climbing is world class, the bars and restaurants are all some combination of picturesque, good, and cheap. The following picture is of the dining area set into a cave at the Rayavadee Resort, the next is of the family eating at a beachside restaurant, the next is where I was waiting for the kids after climbing, the fourth is breakfast at the restaurant for our bungalow “resort”

and the last is of the lunch place where the kids and I have been enjoying the best grilled chicken

and cold coconut milk.